Where funeral ceremonies (known as "Rambu Solo") and death rituals are concerned, Tana Toraja in Indonesia has some of the most mystical and surprising practices. Home to the ethnic Torajan group, Toraja is arguably Sulawesi's most popular destination, visited by travellers the world over for its elaborate funeral rites, ancient cliff burial sites and infant burial practices.

Death — more than any other occasion in an individual's life — is celebrated with lavish expense in Toraja. Families place the bodies of their dead relatives in their family homes for many years until they have saved up enough for their funeral ceremonies.

In fact, they are not considered dead, only "sick", until the funeral ceremony is done and dusted. Attached to every death ritual is a further set of traditions that the Torajans practise, such as the gifting and sacrifice of water buffaloes and pigs at every funeral.

Water buffaloes are treated almost like currency in Toraja, symbolising prestige and wealth. Albino buffaloes - the most expensive of water buffaloes - can cost more than US$30,000 each. In elite families, it is not uncommon to see more than 24 buffaloes gifted and slaughtered.

The Torajans believe the spirit of the buffaloes play an important role in accompanying the deceased's soul to paradise. We loved how the Torajans embrace death as an essential part of life not to be feared, but to be celebrated.

However, we also felt for the cyclical traditions — and of almost inevitable debt — that Torajans are born into.